RS4 Tuning

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RS – Racing Street, Rally Sport, Really Speedy?

RS4 Tuning

Once again Audi show the entire world they can produce a supremely quick car that handles enjoy it is on rails.

The earlier RS4 may benefit from a set of uprated shocks all round and the turbo engines have a lot of potential for tuning up.

The later RS4 is pretty much perfect from the factory but you can continue to add a little more power! !

TorqueCars recommend that you get adjustable shocks and set them up to suite your driving style and preference.

Tuning tips and articles

It hardly seems like there may be any point tuning one of several fastest cars Audi has turned out in while. Which is, until you realise just what is on offer and how much of an electric power gain there is certainly waiting for you.

As with most VAG engines the RS4 engines have ended engineered and will cope with bigger power gains without affecting reliability.

The RS4 is a stunning car from Audi but you can make it much better with a few straightforward to apply performance modifications.

The engines available changed over time so listed here is a quick overview. The B5 chassis RS4 built in 2000-2001 had the powerful 2.7 V6 twin cam twin turbo engine. The two blocks on offer were the ASJ and AZR. These are fascinating propositions for your tuner needing only a turbo conversion and remap to boost power levels by another easy 40% or more.

Then we arrived at the B7 chassis built around 2006-2008 with its 4.2 litre V8 Twin Cam Fsi engine went back to Nasp engines. Factory performance figures actually seems pessimistic with many owners squeezing the -62 run in around 4 seconds. This model handled a lot better than it’s predecessor.

Audi RS4 Tuning modifications.

Your aim when tuning should be a fantastic flat torque curve along with a wide power band. In the NASP engine TorqueCars recommend that the best mechanical mods you should do is to fit a speedy road cam. Apply a remap and some intake/exhaust mods to maximise this but you will end up with a reliable and powerful car.

The Turbo engine is merely crying out for a turbo upgrade. You might have 2 routes, a large single turbo for big top end power or a larger Twin turbos. Twin turbo upgrades can be found from Garrett based twin turbos and a number of hybrid options are around that use the regular Audi RS4 turbo and add uprated internals.

Oil changes must be more regular and you must let the turbos cool down a little after a run or you risk turning the oil to sludge, with oil pump blockages or perhaps the turbos will prematurely wear as the oil delivery stops with the engine switched off.

For those who have uprated the strength by a lot more than 30% it would be smart to uprate your clutch to handle the power, engine cooling should become a priority and.

Audi RS4 Intake and Exhaust Tuning.

Now we move on to the exhaust and intake and ensure proper flow through the engine. The conventional RS4 setup is pretty good on both engines. For the NASP RS4 engine TorqueCars would say to choose a washable high flow cotton panel air filter. On the turbo engines, a suitably setup induction kit, with a cold air feed and preferable housed in an air box.

Miltek offer a great range of performance exhausts which is also worth sourcing a sports catalyst to release the utmost potential through the engine.

Using the NASP as well as to a lesser degree the turbo engine, airflow throughout the head might be dramatically increased with some professional porting and ‘polishing’. The flow rates for each port should be and match setup to look at any other engine mods you possess had done.

When you start tuning your RS4 you will find that the typical clutch starts to complain so get an uprated clutch. The wonderful turbo engines are just begging to be remapped and can handle pretty impressive power gains without any undue issues provided you shorten your service schedule.

Audi RS4 Wheel modifications.

Alloy wheels will help the brakes cool down and they are usually lighter than the steel ones. You alter your effective final drive ratio and this will have a detrimental effect on acceleration and performance. That’s the downside to large alloy wheels on your RS4. Although some individuals have gone larger we would adhere to a 17 inch rim size as being the maximum.

The RS4 is pretty heavy, even though Quattro drive system will make it feel very nimble and responsive you should always fit good quality tyres. Some RS4 owning TorqueCars members have rated the Goodyear Eagle F1 but tyre choice is subjective and we suggest you join our friendly forum where one can discuss RS4 tuning options in more detail.

Enjoying a Mountain Driving Trip

Nothing can beat a drive through the mountains on a fine day, a delightful and exhilarating experience with another scene around every twist and turn of the road. It is also worth remembering that driving from the mountains does put a little extra wear and tear onto a car or truck but following these tips will help you to have fun while staying safe on a leisurely mountain drive.

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Before you start climbing or descending those steep mountain roads, 1 – Be certain that your motor is perfectly up to the job. Pay particular attention to your heater, defroster and brakes windshield wipers and exhaust system. Fluids needs to be checked within your brakes and transmission and replaced as often as recommended based on the brand name of your vehicle. As brake fluid ages it becomes contaminated with moisture and other stuff which lowers the boiling level, should you start putting your brakes under extra pressure on steep roads the fluid may overheat and cause your brakes to lose efficiency – a bad idea, in fact quite scary and extremely dangerous.

2 – Don’t attempt to whizz down steep hills to make up for time crawling up them, you ought to go up and down at about the same speed and remember to stay in low gear and utilize engine braking on the descents. You need to only need to your brakes to slow down as you may shift in to a lower gear.

3 – Keep an eye on your temperature gauge when you’re going up steep gradients. When the temperature starts to creep dangerously high shut down the air conditioning (that should help) and pull into somewhere to give the engine possiblity to cool down if you find a safe place available. Don’t switch off the engine, just let it tick over rather than try to remove the radiator cap whilst it is actually hot. If you switch about the car heater it will help to cool the engine down.

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4 – Keep to the right side of the road, even on narrow roads. It can be tempting to hug the center of those narrow mountain roads but that’s really a pretty bad idea. If you meet someone in the opposite direction with the same idea when you it is likely that one (or both) of yourself will over compensate which could result in a car accident.

5 – Remember your etiquette, the auto which is travelling uphill has right of way over cars travelling downhill.

6 – It can be very tempting to decrease (even in the midst of the road) to appreciate particularly spectacular scenery etc and take a photograph but do make sure that it can be safe to do so. Make sure that you don’t stop suddenly and create a problem for a car travelling behind you, try to use a designated pull in spot wherever possible. You will see that many of the best beauty spots will have a pull in area for you to enjoy the scenery safely and take your photos in your own time.

7 – Be sure you take a few supplies together with you. Extra h2o is essential as well as snacks and food. It is easy to become dehydrated at high altitude levels which can lead to mild altitude sickness and reduce your alertness and ability to operate safely.

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8 – Take lots of breaks, it truly is incredibly tiring to drive on twisty, mountainous roads, though it may be incredibly enjoyable.

Alhambra Nissan has a great selection of new and used cars that happen to be ready and waiting for a soothing mountain drive. Check it out at http://www.downtownnissan.com to see yourself.

Giggle gas – something to put a smile on your face.

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Giggle Gas – Nitrous Oxide (N20) the energy button!

NB: NoS is a brand name of any company but some confuse this with the name of the gas Dinitrous Monoxide AKA – Nitrous Oxide N20, Dinitrous Monoxide, Dinitrogen oxide also known as Nitrous or giggle gas (from its medical usage being an anaesthetic.

It was actually used in wartime to boost the engines in aircraft and later became a big hit in drag racing in the Pro Mod class. Not a flammable gas by itself it is injected into the intake manifold where it mixes with air & fuel. The main advantage of Nitrous comes as it burns and becomes an oxidiser releasing more oxygen to the engine.

An intriguing side benefit of using Nitrous is the cooling effect they have. It rapidly changes coming from a liquid to some gas and produces a cooling effect (when investing in out of the bath the water actually starts to evaporate or turn into a gas vapour and takes the temperature from your body) this cooling effect decreases the temperature in the air taken in by 60 degrees F. Colder air carries more oxygen which is required for combustion to take place – more oxygen means you can burn more fuel.

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As being the Nitrous gas is heated up within the combustion process it fails releasing additional increases and oxygen the burn rate allowing more fuel to enter the combustion chamber. Different size nozzle jets offer larger boosts towards the power which range from 20bhp more to over 200bhp more.

And also sending Nitrous to the engine you will also have to supply additional fuel (Nitrous provides a cooler denser air charge, more oxygen, so will run Lean if more fuel is not delivered.) Obviously the engine has to be able to handle this increased power and pressure so the jets are matched to the application.

Most standard engines can cope with a 20 – 40 bhp shot. If you choose a major power increase, Forged pistons, forged steel rods and a heavy-duty cylinder head with up rated gasket and performance bolts and full balancing are required.

An entire range of Nitrous delivery systems are available for all applications of engine and vehicles types and can be matched to each and every cylinder in the engine. The typical delivery systems are: –

WET (The fuel and Nitrous are introduced and mixed together on the primary area of the intake. This product produces a little more power than dry but cannot be used on an engine with a dry intake typically most fuel injected engines.)

DRY (The additional fuel needed to maintain the burn balance from Lean to Rich is delivered by the injectors of the car. The principal part of the intake is kept dry of fuel.)

FOGGER (Named after the Fogger Nozzle mixes the fuel and Nitrous mixture and sprays it directly into the cylinder. Each cylinder can be setup separately and further foggers can be added developing a dual stage kit. Foggers generally produce the most significant power gains.)

A bottle warmer can assist with maintaining bottle pressure and delivering smooth power. To obtain an idea exactly how much Nitrous remains in your bottle you need to weigh it – as the pressure gauge just indicates the pressure in the bottle and this may differ depending on temperature.

Adding Nitrous is a very easy high power modification. The refills could be a hidden cost though.

It is fairly easy to match Nitrous into a vehicle within 4 to 6 hours although most insurance companies will never provide cover for road use. (As with every modifications your insurers should be notified.) A 10 lb bottle of Nitrous is useful for about 3 minutes of boost (7-10 ¼ miles runs) but shouldn’t really be operated for longer than 10-15 seconds at the same time if you don’t want to blow up your engine.

Nitrous can also be used on diesel engines a 130ps Golf TDI got almost double the power – but boy racers don’t buy diesels – well not until recently.

Medical grade NoS does not have a smell added like automotive grade Nitrous (incidentally the smell added to car grade Nitrous is Hydrogen Sulfide, an incredibly nasty additive that will cause permanent problems for lung tissues and nerve endings if deliberately inhaled for recreation! ) So you can use medical grade Nitrous in a vehicle but not vice versa! !!

When to press the Nitrous boost button –

At or over 2500 RPM using the throttle fully depressed – you can buy a progressive boost system which matches the Nitrous shot to the throttle position and regulates the flow. You will receive an enormous increase of torque and also this can result in a loss of traction – so be careful at speed like a loss of traction usually equals an impressive spin and crash.

Pressing the Nitrous button and then starting the engine can cause catastrophic engine damage. If the button is accidentally pressed – disengage the coil and turn the engine over a few times to get rid of the cylinders.

Suppliers of Nitrous injection systems are: – NOS, Wizards of NOS, Nitrous Express (NX), ZeX and Edelbrock Holley Nos, Venom,Nitrous Solutions and MJS (You will discover NX, Wizards and NOS of NOS in online part shops.)

Cryogenic Treatments

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Cool stuff

When putting more power through an engine you need to guarantee that every part will work at its optimum.

One of several motorsports favourite techniques to increase the durability of an engine is really a process referred to as cryogenic treatments.

As you can guess from the usage of the word Cryo – it demands the cooling and heating from the engine block to temper the metal changing its structure.

First the engine is slowly cooled in liquid nitrogen. The liquid nitrogen is included in the sealed tank in very precise measures, too quickly and you risk causing stress fractures inside the metal.

After you have reached around -350F the engine temperature is slowly raised up again to over 300 F across a 12 hour period approximately.

This process is repeated 3 or 4 times during the period of a week. The process will work on any metal engine part with popular use for hardening the pistons, crank and block.

The camshaft is also a high wear section of a performance tuned engine and will take advantage of cryo treatment. It is best that the parts are cryo treated separately and then assembled.

Extreme cooling and heating has a massive effect on the engines reliability and durability.

The heating and cooling of the metal aligns the ‘metal molecules’ and allows them to be much more tightly packed together. This cooling and heating actually traps carbon atoms which do not have time to diffuse from the crystal structure.

It forms a more symmetrical crystalline lattice which is much tougher than untreated metal. Known as a Martensitic structure this technique has been used to boost blades and cutting surfaces and is now being applied to engine tuning.

It allows the head valves and gasket to seat better and this will also improve engine efficiency and power. It also raises the lubricity of 2 surfaces as there are less friction causing imperfections again raising the ability output of the engine.

Rather than just affecting the surface of the metal the slow temperature changes allow the entire metal to attain the benefits.

The engine is much harder and can cope with far more stress. That’s any stress points from the metal are thus removed and the result.

The internal friction of the surfaces is reduced giving an instant power gain. Because internal friction is lower the engine is more reliable and some sources quote 8 times the wear resistance for certain metals after a cryogenic treatment together with improved tensile strength.

You can find not many places offering the service but there are a few specialists available. The relative cost to benefit ratio is fantastic and will give you a distinct advantage in the competitive motorsports arena allowing you to boost the bar of your own engine power.

Not only will you gain power plus a longer engine life you will also get better fuel consumption as being the engine is a lot more efficient with less internal friction. TorqueCars see Cryogenic treatments like a win/win situation.

We anticipate that performance parts suppliers will be listed cryo treated items as premium parts alongside their usual catalogues. As fascination with this grows you are best to get in there quickly and gain the competitive advantage.

Three Things to Invest in to Save You Money Later

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heap of American dollars (closeup)

Sometimes the most affordable option isn’t the best option when you are making a purchase. Many times, spending more money at first will save you money in the long run, meaning that you should look at every major purchase from an investment standpoint. Here are three things that will assist you save money in the long run with slightly more spent in the beginning.

1. Appliances

Getting the cheapest appliances or appliances that look good on the outside but that aren’t made to last will ultimately set you back money. Once you spend hundreds or thousands on an appliance, you want to ensure that you get a thing that will really last. Take special care when you are shopping to make certain that you obtain the best because the best could last decades. Even small appliances are a thing that deserve care when purchasing, this way you don’t have to worry about buying things for your home that only last a couple of years.

2. An Electric Car

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An electric powered car, like the Nissan Leaf from Redlands Nissan is just one investment that will lead to numerous savings later on. With a mind-blowing MPG of over 100, it is possible to spend less at the pump and more for the things you want to spend money on. Not only that, but you will get one of the best environmentally friendly options for your mode of transportation. Check out the Leaf today at http://metronissanredlands.com.

3. Quality Furniture

Sure there are big box stores where you can furnish your entire home for just a few thousand dollars, but when you get higher quality furniture when you create your home, you will have pieces that last years. Don’t spend lots of time putting together furniture from diagrams. Get sturdier pieces that can stand the exam of time. Just be sure that you keep to classic, not trendy, designs which means your furniture will look stylish and functional.

Car Insurance for Modified Cars

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Finding low car insurance quotes for modified cars

This is a long overdue article with an often overlooked aspect of Vehicle insurance. Car insurance – all policies state Has the car been modified, altered or adapted from the manufacturers original specification or has it been tuned.

If a car has been modified, all insurers need to know. The stats in the insurers generally show that modified cars take part in more claims, not just accidents but there is a greater likely hood of the car being stolen.

There is also the opportunity that lower suspension or wider wheels could adversely affect the handling of the car so the model they rated and gave a team to will not apply to your vehicle. So an underwriter needs to agree ‘terms’ of cover.

Any modification in your car must be notified for your insurers or else you risk invalidating your cover.

Even stickers could represent a ‘Moral hazard’ for the insurers. Failure to notify insurers could render your insurance invalid leaving you to manage prosecution for failure to buy adequate car insurance to your vehicle or maybe if a claim is paid on your behalf they might well ask for reimbursement of amounts paid out for you so even when you are Third Party Only you could lose out.

Insurance – notification of modifications.

When getting car insurance a little paranoia is a good thing.

Always keep a copy of all correspondence sent/received in reaction to a modification being notified to your car insurers.

It really is helpful whenever you can detail every modification and even supply a rolling road printout to permit the underwriter to individually assess your automobile.

Thankfully more insurers are recognizing the common modifications and providing realistic quotes without the need for specialist referrals.

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Some car insurers may offer car insurance quotes at normal terms (no extra premium), Apply terms (extra premium, & or higher excess & or agreement to replace modified parts with standard parts.

State honestly what you have done to your vehicle insurance company when you get a quote but think about how you disclose the modifications. For instance you might remember that a SPORTS EXHAUST is identical thing being a 3inch bore stainless steel exhaust with a 25 year guarantee. (One sounds much better to a insurer than the other.)

Along with the difference from a high performance air filter and washable direct replacement air filter. When a chip increases MPG state this when your primary reason behind upgrading as an alternative to mention this as a complication and then declare that it also gives slightly more power as a secondary reason. Car insurance companies, as opposed to popular belief to want to insure people they just don’t like taking up too much extra risk and most of the making decisions is done by a person who reviews each case on its own merits.

How do insurers set rates for modified cars and custom cars?

When setting an automobile insurance premium for a modified car, an insurer will likely look at the base car you commenced from – diesels are favoured over petrol. A £500 car with a £1000 ICE install and £2000 worth of 20 inch alloy wheels is undoubtedly an obviously increases the risk of the vehicle going ‘missing’ and most insurers would refuse this unless you agree they can replace the nicked items with standard parts.

When you drive a Group 20 car costing £30,000 and add £2000 of alloy wheels as well as a £1000 ICE install these are less likely to impose terms. And if the car already does -60 in 4 seconds and also you modify it to go -60 in 3.7 seconds again there is little weight to the argument of an increased premium.

Car insurers need to see enthusiasts that love cars and look after them as opposed to the boy racer who wants to impress his mates in the 7/11 car park.

Getting automobile insurance cover first and then applying modifications later to the car often means the insurer will listen to you whereas they would refuse a new person with no record. Obviously you should choose a sympathetic car insurer and there are no guarantees but ask you friends who they insure with. Buying an already modified car is yet another good bet – you didn’t perform mods so theoretically will not be so much of a danger to the insurance company.

Modified friendly insurers are about and most give excellent terms, this topic crops up frequently in our forum..

TorqueCars members receive as much as a 20% discount from selected insurers – so make sure you join our forum to see these offers.

Many Lloyds syndicates will also be willing to listen and present you personalised terms. It is certainly worth contacting a large Broker and let him do the negotiating and searching for you. For standard cars the insurance supermarkets give excellent ranges of prices making shopping around easier but for modified cars you should approach insurers on a 1 to 1 basis, why not also ask our members in your forums and find out who they insure with for an idea on where to begin.

Rust Removal and Rust Treatment Tips

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A little RUSTic charm

Rust is metals version of cancer.

Once it gets hold it will take over eating into more and more of the metal. Rust needs Oxygen and moisture to perform its stuff.

When metal is protect by a layer of paint the oxygen cannot penetrate. A stone chip is all it takes to start off of the process, however.

Initially rust will bubble up the surface of the metal gradually eating deeper and deeper. The sooner it is caught the better it will probably be.

A rust spot must be thoroughly treated.

1) Sand down the rust spot up until you get back to bare metal. It is a good precaution to go a little bit wider compared to the damaged area just in case it has started to spread further. You may have to cut out the area and weld in a new plate. It is crucial that you sand the surface flat as any imperfections will show up when it is painted.

2) Cover the whole area with a rust inhibitor which can act as an undercoat/key for the next stages. There are lots of treatments on the market but most do a very good job. They should not be viewed as a rust killer and remover though – they merely prevent rust from happening in future.

3) Fill the depression caused by sanding with sand, smooth and filler off. (When the depression is merely small you could possibly well pull off a thicker coat of paint or some high build primer.

4) Cover the area with paint according to our stone chip repair guide and after that finish with a bit of cutting paste and a clear coat.

Rust is essentially a type of metal cancer and should be dealt with immediately. If allowed to get a retain the repair grows more costly and hard.

If the rust is a bit more serious, for example on wings and the bottoms of doors your only real option is to cut away the damage metal and weld in a new panel. Doors can usually get replaced cheaply from the breakers yard and repainted which is usually easier compared to a repair.

Front wings may also be easy to replace and paint. Anything in the rear wing and structural areas with rust will need a new panel welding into properly sort it.

Make sure you cut the rust thoroughly then and away cover the area using a rust inhibitor to prevent further damage from forming as you are working about the area.

Rust prevention is far easier to do than rust repair. The most obvious way to guard against surface rust is to apply a wax coating every 6 months. See our article on wax and polish for more information on this.

In addition to this there are numerous of corrosion inhibitors in the marketplace which are typically sprayed within the car and behind panels. TorqueCars would recommend this is applied in numerous thin coats. Special care ought to be taken to avoid the drain holes in the bottom of the panels from getting clogged up.

It would be smart to place some blunt wire through each drain hole to ensure that it is not necessarily blocked. The last thing you want to do is usually to allow water to collect inside of the panel or door.

Many leaks can be quite a sign of rust, usually they can be just caused by broken rubber seals however the area must be fully investigated for rust. One frustrating area to acquire rust in is around the windscreen. We now have known cars that have gone in for a windscreen replacement to require extensive work to the frames due to rust caused by ingression of water.

Should you require anymore information on the treatment of rust or general care of your car please join us in our friendly forum where our resident enthusiasts should be able to provide advice and tips.

20 Great Reasons to Drive a Fiat 500

Are you aware why the Fiat 500 is one of the most widely used selling Fiats in America? Well there are lots of great reasons, so in case you were wondering, check out this page:

1. If you happen upon a great deal like the ones they have at Los Angeles fiat. Have a look at their offers at http://www.ocfiat.com.

2. The Fiat 500 is low on insurance and possesses a great warranty

3. You can find the Fiat 500 in a wide range of exterior colors – some of them could cost a few bucks extra but lots of them don’t

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4. The Fiat 500 is small but taller overall than something such as a Mini which means that it possesses a better, more upright seating position and a better take a look at the road ahead

5. If you choose a model without a sunroof that goes up to 6’3″ – the sunroof takes 2″ through the head roo, sticking to the size theme – the Fiat 500 will fit drivers up to 6’ 1″ comfortably andm

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6. Passengers around 5’9″ tall can comfortably sit inside the rear seats of the Fiat 500 without bumping their heads

7. The Fiat 500 also provides great leg room for such a small car – 32.2 inches compared to only 29.9 inches in a Mini

8. The Fiat 500 has the lowest emissions in its class of motors – and that’s something we all have to take seriously these days

9. This “tardis” of a car has an incredible 6.5 cubic feet of trunk space with a relatively long luggage floor – you can even fold on the rear seats for extra space

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10. Even base Fiat 500 models are supplied with HVAC systems which have micron air filters in the cabin

11. Fiat 500’s are also supplied with a standard security system

12. The Fiat 500 is exceedingly economical and fuel efficient – in line with the manual you can expect to get between 30 mpg and 38 mpg on regular, standard fuel . . . you don’t need to pay extra for premium gas

13. Traction control is fitted as standard to the Fiat 500

14. The interior trim used in Fiat is flame retardant . . . talk about attention to detail and safety

15. Fiats are fitted with seven airbags although some similar size and type of car simply have six, including one for the drivers knees

16. All of the levers, controls and switches are placed for ease of use from the driver

17. The Fiat 500 may be the ultimate city car for tight spaces – it features a turning circle of lower than 35 feet and can be parked in to the tightest of spots as necessary

18. Fiat 500’s are so popular in the United States (the engines are created here in Michigan) that parts are relatively cheap in comparison to other models

19. Even though Fiat 500 is tall enough for the average driver it is also incredibly aerodynamic which all aids in fuel efficiency

20. The Fiat 500 is a super cool motor. It puts the fun directly into combines and driving practicality with style

The number of more reasons do you need? There are other Fiat 500’s on the roads in America than almost any other Fiat model, and with so many fabulous reasons to drive one it’s hardly surprising is it? Don’t forget to look into the deals at LA Fiat.

Letting Your Car Warm Up On Cold Winter Mornings

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There has been lots of debate about whether you ought to let your car or truck warm up on cold winter mornings. Some individuals say that it must be bad for he environment and also bad for the engine while some say that as soon as the car warms up gradually through idling, it is better for the car as well as the driver that does not want to drive a cold car. So, whats the truth? Which way is right for the the, driver and car environment? It all amounts to whether the driver thinks it can be worth the fuel consumption it takes to idle until it is actually warm.

Fuel consumption

Letting Your Car Warm-up On Cold Winter MorningsThe common misconception about letting your car heat up on cold winter mornings is that because you are not going anywhere, it is really not using much fuel. When your car idles for 2 minutes, it will require as much gas as it would take to drive about a mile so if you let your car heat up for 10-20 minutes, you lose up to 5 miles off your tank of gas, something that can really add up with all the fluctuation of gas prices,. That is the fact.

Another element of the fuel consumption from letting your automobile warm up may be the release of fumes from the gasoline that can cause pollution. These fumes increase if the cold engine is started but running the automobile does not increase or decrease these fumes, therefore, it will not help the environment if the car is not warmed up when it is cold outside.

Engine Performance

Another large misconception about why you should let your car warm up is the theory that it must be easier on the engine to warm it up. This is not the situation. The way the engine works is the fact that when it is cold, it needs to warm-up, but an effective way for it to warm up is to get it moving. When you drive in a normal pace, not speeding or hard breaking; your automobile will heat naturally without wasting gas. This allows all the components to warm up while they are moving instead of simply sitting there with no parts really moving.

Human Heat

Although warming up your automobile by idling on the cold winter mornings can be harder on your vehicle, you also need to keep in mind exactly how cold it really is outside. When temperatures reach down to the single digits, and even below zero, you do not desire to sit in a cold car.

The answer to whether or not you should let your car warm up on cold winter mornings has many factors to it. On one side, it does not benefit your car, experts say it can actually be harmful to the environment but when you get into a cold car, you can be risking your personal health. If you should let your car heat up is to see how cold it is and if your windows have ice, the best way to figure out. Should you gotta scrape, then you should let it heat up for just a minute until the heater kicks in, if it is warm enough that ice hasn’t formed, then it is warm enough to drive without becoming a popsicle.

Why You Should Check An Arizona Home AC Units & Car AC Units

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Both home AC car and units AC units work on the same principle, they remove hot air from inside and deposit it outside. An Arizona home AC unit consists of a compressor, a condenser, and an evaporator.

The Difference between Arizona Home AC Units & Car AC UnitsThe compressor may be the big boxy part you can see outside your own home. Which increases its temperature and turns it into a vapor, it’s referred to as compressor because its job is to compress the refrigerant. The hot vapor then moves into the condenser coil where it is cooled while the heat is transferred outside. So, as the refrigerant is changed from liquid to gas it absorbs heat so when it changes from gas to liquid it releases heat.

If the refrigerant cools it changes from a vapor to a liquid. When the liquid refrigerant is forced through the opening in the expansion valve it is changed right into a cool mist due to the fact that gas cools as it expands. Returns to the expansion area and continually repeats the cycle, as the refrigerant cools it changes into a liquid state. The capability in the refrigerant to alter forms because it is compressed and heatedexpanded and heatedexpanded and cooled makes it the lifeblood of the air conditioner.

To place it simply, as air passes through the indoor coil it is actually cooled and blown by your home while hot air from your own home is released and absorbed outside.

Your vehicle AC unit works on the same principle, with a compressor to compress the refrigerant, a condenser containing coils that cool the refrigerant changing it into a cold liquid, plus an expansion valve that forces the refrigerant to change right into a mist. A blower motor then moves air within the cold evaporator tubes. Additionally a car air-conditioner contains a drier canister where moisture is absorbed through the air. Finally the cool air is blown inside of your vehicle.

When you are in need of South Chandler AC repair or air conditioner maintenance it’s best to call a specialist, especially since older air conditioning units use Freon as a refrigerant. Freon has been discovered to be dangerous to the ozone, so air conditioning unit technicians in Apache Junction use special machines to contain the Freon, preventing its release in the atmosphere.

Both home AC units and car AC units work on the very same principle, they remove heat from inside and deposit it outside. An Arizona home AC unit includes compressor, a condenser, as well as an evaporator.

The Visible Difference between Arizona Home AC Units & Car AC UnitsThe compressor is the big boxy part you see outside your home. Which increases its temperature and turns it in to a vapor, it’s called the compressor because its job is always to compress the refrigerant. The recent vapor then moves in to the condenser coil where it can be cooled as the heat is transferred outside. So as the refrigerant is changed from liquid to gas it absorbs heat and as it changes from gas to liquid it releases heat.

When the refrigerant cools it changes from the vapor to a liquid. Once the liquid refrigerant is forced throughout the opening in the expansion valve it is changed into a cool mist because of the fact that gas cools because it expands. Returns for the expansion area and continually repeats the cycle, as the refrigerant cools it changes to a liquid state. The capability of the refrigerant to change forms as it is compressed and heatedheated and expandedexpanded and cooled will make it the lifeblood of your air conditioning unit.

To put it simply, as air passes from the indoor coil it is cooled and blown through your home while hot air from your home is released and absorbed outside.

Your vehicle AC unit works on a single principle, with a compressor to compress the refrigerant, a condenser containing coils that cool the refrigerant changing it in to a cold liquid, and an expansion valve that forces the refrigerant to alter into a mist. A blower motor then moves air over the cold evaporator tubes. Additionally a vehicle air-conditioner includes a drier canister where moisture is absorbed from the air. Finally the cool air is blown inside your vehicle.

When you may need South Chandler AC repair or ac unit maintenance it’s best to call a professional, especially since older air conditioners use Freon as being a refrigerant. Freon has been found to become dangerous for the ozone, so air conditioner technicians in Apache Junction use special machines to include the Freon, preventing its release into the atmosphere.

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